Press – Specially Sauced, Willamette Week

Press – Specially Sauced, Willamette Week

Specially Sauced

by Kelly Clarke, Willamette Week

The Bite Club first heard several months ago that chef Mark Greco was planning to open a NoPo all-day breakfast and lunch joint named after our favorite savory topping. All winter long, as we fried pork chops and braised beef–reserving liquids and incorporating roux–we wondered if Gravy, the latest blast in North Mississippi Avenue’s restaurant boomlet, could live up to its saucy promise.

Yes, it does.

This gravy is some special sauce indeed, thick yet silky, its flavor enriched with a creamy Cajun edge, thanks to Greco’s homemade fennel sausage. And the gravy’s flavor is especially good when ladled atop a three-finger-width biscuit.

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